![]() I presume you are using the black (output) jack in the light-green socket and the red one (microphone) in the pink socket. If possible, take a picture of the cable connection or describe where did you plugged them in. It even shows you if you are using the right input jack since it detects where did you plug it. I have exactly the same motherboard (Z97 Gaming3) and didnt find the Realtek manager intuitive to work with, but it does the job. Check if you plugged the microphone in the correct input jack. Other possible problem: your microphone input is not correctly set up. Those are specifically built for use with an iPhone so i am not sure the PC will accept the microphone even though you are using the splitter. I think that your problem are the headphones. I cannot seem to find the problem or find a solution. I have tried every setting I can find in both the Realtek HD Manager and the Sounds/Recording Devices within Windows 10. but the Mic is either nothing or a soft single tone that constantly plays and it does not pick up any sound from the Mic. Now the problem I am having is that when I use these two products on my PC the Audio works perfectly. As indicated on the Amazon page for the product. ![]() I bought this audio Splitter: https /goo.gl/NsNQYE) Which allows me to split the single Aux from the Headphones into 2 separate Aux ports with one for Audio and one for the Mic. everything works fine on my phone (All buttons, Speakers and Mic). I wanted to be able to use them on my phone and my PC. I have recently bought these headphones (Beats EP https /goo.gl/Wm1ssL) OTOH, if you are testing (as an example) the effect of changing something in the gain stage (cathode resistor/led/grid bias & plate resistor VS choke VS transistor CCS?) on a simple OTL tube amp it may be better to use a higher impedance so you are not listening "through" whatever crap the output stage does driving 32ohms.įWIW, its been my experience that a 6dj8 white cathode follower is transparent enough into 32 ohms to hear differences in various tube loading&biasing methods, but YMMV and its still better into 300 ohms or more.I have got a PC Running Windows 10 64bit with a Gigabyte z97 gaming 3 Motherboard. There are enough headphone amps that measure and sound great loaded with a high impedance (300 ohms or more) but measure and sound flat out ugly when loaded with 32 ohms that this is worth taking into account if you want to run 32 ohm headphones off of whatever it is you are testing. If you are testing a headphone/power amp this way be sure to load the output between the output of the "amp under test" and the "distribution amp(s)" with a realistic load. At least everyone is listening to the same amplification chain. They are generally kind of cheap, but if you are trying to get a consensus of how a certain change to the circuit sounds from a bunch of people at once it may work. 1 input, and several headphone amps built in, each with its own volume control (before the amp) and every headphone gets its own actual amp. You can buy fairly inexpensive amplifiers designed for studio use like this. As long as you keep the variables to a minimum and the splitter amp is good enough to get the differences through you should be reasonably OK. Or is it prefered to have one input & amp each output seperately? but drawback if one wanted to use it for testing out another amp so everyone could listen to it, then you would be amping the signal twice and not directly listening to the source amp.Īmplifying the signal twice is as you mentioned not ideal, but it may be the only way to get a consensus from a group. Depending on the headphones it could be harmless or it could be pretty important. The problem with putting a volume control on the output of the amp is that the output impedance of the amp is conditional on where the pot is parked and generally quite high no mater what you do. The headphones are in parallel, so a few sets of low impedance headphones may be too low of an impedance for the amp to drive well. ![]() If everyone has the same headphones this works out OK assuming everyone likes the same levels and the amp can drive the combined load properly. From that point on do you split the amps output and put potentiometers to each audio output? so that each device can get the correct drive? I assume if one attempted this method you need a powerful amp turned up high? I was curious on how to split music with one music source, and amp to 2-3 headphones. I was curious how audio splitters work, but im not exactly talking about Y-cables. Originally Posted by igotyofire /img/forum/go_quote.gif
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